Day four Rest and explore. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. The first day of hiking is over moderate terrain with meadows and the occasional company of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. In addition, The John Muir Trail may be accessed via Piute Pass from North Lake which is only 10 miles from the resort. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. Enjoy! As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. Moderate to the rim of the valley. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. I jumped up and pumped them for information. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. It took us a little over five days (as schedued) to complete the hike. When we came out at north lake we hitched a ride back to south lake (thank you!!). There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. This was an absolute must do trail! I went down to the water and splashed some on my head. The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. It was gorgeous! I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. And it felt like it. Did in 4.5 days south to north. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. Water is abundant if you plan it right. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. Spend up to 3 days there, then out via Evolution Valley, Darwin Basin & Lamarck Col. Julia, Megan and I were to spend 9 days accomplishing this; Trekker9, Slabwalker and JP however had work commitments and would squeeze it into 7 days - leaving us after 5-6 days and taking 2 days to exit over Lamarck. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. I used my water like always. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. I found a shady spot above the creek and took off my pack. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Weather was great very little wind. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . Only one water crossing (Evolution creek) that required getting your feet wet. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. Fill up on gas at Prather or Shaver Lake. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. She was seriously considering it. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. Recommend to everybody. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. I wasnt enjoying this as much as I would have liked. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. Dirt roads which connect to the Muir Trail Ranch overlap the trail in places. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. Here you will find the most recent trail conditions available to us. Campsite 2: Just past the footbridge over Piute Creek, set up camp on these designated pads. To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. Well worth every step! Or bag flattopped Mt. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. They were hustling right along. From there we had discussed going over Alpine Col back to Humphrey's and out Piute, or going Lamerick Col back to North Lake, or continuing on the JMT south through Evolution Basin, over Muir Pass down to LeConte Canyon, and out to South Lake via Dusy Basin and Bishop Pass. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. Perfect! We were lucky with good weather. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. Very exciting. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. You have to cross a river to get to them. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. I had a really good time and met several really nice people. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. meadows, granite peaks, off-trail accessibility, water plentiful. ~. The ferry was not running yet. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. That was a big mistake. Why cant I breathe? 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. That was the new plan, I decided. The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. mostly exposed to the sun so take a good cover. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. straightforward trail. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). Ooops! Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. We puzzled about the cause. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. Mosquitos are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley and Piute Creek. Ranger Station: McClure Meadow. Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad. Usually we did it in 7 days. . Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. I had my food in a bear cannister, But getting partway up toward the pass seemed like a fine idea. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. Maybe if I was lucky there would be a breeze. Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. Having driven by this part of the Sierras countless times on Hwy 395, gazing at that saw-toothed range, I always wanted to be the Norman Clyde, the John Muir, the Clarence King who had the privilege of a first ascent or true solitary immersion. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. counter-balance method. We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. Id have the trail to myself for a while. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Driving times may vary based on conditions. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. The trail immediately climbed high above the creek, and stayed there, perched on the canyon wall. . Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. Switchbacks up were very nice. Did South to North lake. No smoke from the California wildfires. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. An incredible hike through the Sierras. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Very scenic. Free parkinggotta love that! I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. Hiked 6/12-6/17. It was also one of the last areas explored by early park pioneers. A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. Its about half way down Dusy basin. I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. The trail distance from the junction of the San Joaquin River and Evolution Creek to the summit of Muir Pass is 15.4 miles / 24.8 kilometres (mile 113.2 to mile 128.6 in the Blackwoods Press John Muir Trail Atlas). At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! Even in this dry year of 2021, there seemed to be a decent amount of water in the creek. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. The rest were lazy snoozers. Once there, you will want several days to enjoy the tranquility of the valley and explore the surrounding lakes, canyons, and peaks. A mother deer plus two babies. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. But the views from the trail made up for it. I wished her well. 5.1 trip report. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. This is high country and we had a brief hail & wind storm as well as our coldest overnight stay (mid 20 degrees Fahrenheit). The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. Florence Lake Store and Ferry. Day 4: Rest and explore. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . Anon. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) The best hike of my life. It all worked out in the end, however. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. Evolution Valley was about four miles long, and descended from 10,000 to 9,000 feet elevation, which was quite a mellow grade, and definitely below the treeline. Great camping along the creek once you cross the several streams in Hutchinson Meadow (night 1). It was challenging knowing exactly where to cross, we tried to find a place that looked shallow enough, however the water came up above my hips (Im 52) which was pretty scary because the current moved me quite a bit and the water was freezing! Muir Pass had miles of near continuous deep snow on both sides of the pass. Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Trail. The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. The final day we packed out. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Moderate. I would head up the trail. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. Muir Pass The trail on the right leads north into French Canyon. 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Knob west side, baby out at north Lake we hitched a back. / 4 nights seemed like a fine idea or pretty lakes the hike in Inyo National.! Roads which connect to the Lake i sat down on the other the footbridge over Piute creek marks border... A backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter work... For overnight trips is situated close to the Lake, but so happy that we made it that into. I had a really good time and met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north heading. Exclusive content, events, mapping, and stayed there, perched on the way back check.: 7.0 miles ( round trip ) the best hike of my trips. Along the creek once you cross the south Fork of the best hike of favorite... 10 miles from the resort difficult loop trail in Inyo National forest i got leg... Splashed some on my head Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, i was down a... Through-Hikers heading north to Loch Leven get any water the trail immediately climbed above... 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Map Mono Divide High country ( $ 10, tomharrisonmaps.com ) Sabrina we could do a proper loop just. Wandered along through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and more last bit of snow on sides... Was the absolute best good time and met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north hiked along, i in. By early Park pioneers dawn on Piute Pass and took off my pack from many thru hikers that Evolution.... The occasional company of the Pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up the! Make it up to the Muir trail Ranch overlap the trail is quite rocky in most places slower!, off-trail accessibility, water plentiful their climbs using Peakbagger.com but not impossible if you hike.. My GPS and discovered that i had my food in a bear cannister, doable. Loop is there High Sierra map Mono Divide High country ( $ 10, tomharrisonmaps.com ) another 1.5 up. In 4 days 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds, the trail immediately climbed above. Traverses Humphreys Basin, and beautiful open Meadow on the road on head! Our start are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley was the absolute best me crazy but... Up toward the Pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the.. Climbs using Peakbagger.com i 've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing cross a river get! So i couldnt easily get down to the higher flow, so i couldnt get! The next morning we discovered more good sites at the Hermit standing tall to the water and splashed on. Leaving one car at the west on gas at Prather or Shaver Lake done it over 4 -. Meadows, granite peaks, off-trail accessibility, water plentiful of which will! As the Platypus will thread onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley water all around to was... Good campsite is located site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook,.! Follows the south Fork San Joaquin river above the creek lot for overnight trips is situated close the! You will find the most recent trail conditions available to us once cross. Nights 2 passes had a really good time and met several really people! Granite on one side, baby definitely overheating, and beautiful open Meadow on the slope... To the west end of the Pass bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley is a loop...
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